Getting Around Cinque Terre Without the Ferry: Winter Trains, Cards, Buses and Driving

Ferries in winter: what's left

The regular season is over

The Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti Line 02 boats run from late March to 1 November 2026. They connect Levanto, Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, Riomaggiore, Porto Venere and La Spezia. From 2 November they stop. Corniglia never had a ferry stop anyway, because it sits on a cliff.

The "Cinque Terre Trip" excursion (2 November to 8 December 2026)

For about five more weeks, the operator runs a reduced daily boat called the Cinque Terre Trip:

• Dates: daily, 2 November to 8 December 2026. The operator warns that the service can change with the weather and sea conditions.
• Route: from La Spezia (ticket office on Passeggiata Morin) or Porto Venere to Vernazza and Monterosso only. You get off at each and rejoin the boat at a fixed time. If you start in La Spezia, it also stops at Porto Venere on the way back.
• Price: €37 per adult for the daily return ticket covering all stops; €15 for children aged 6 to 11. One-way to Monterosso, with all the stops on the way, costs €25 per adult.
• Tickets: at the La Spezia or Porto Venere ticket office on the day, or online for an extra booking fee.
• Times: the operator's 2 November–8 December timetable has the boat leaving La Spezia at 10:00 and reaching Vernazza at 11:20. It leaves Vernazza at 12:20 for Monterosso (12:30), leaves Monterosso at 14:30, calls at Porto Venere (15:30–16:30) and is back in La Spezia at 17:00. From Porto Venere it leaves at 10:25 and returns there at 15:30.

It's a sightseeing loop, not a transport service. Book it for the view of the coast from the sea, not to get from one village to the next. The summer boats and private cruises are covered in our boat tours and ferries guide.

After 8 December: no boats

From 9 December 2026 until spring, no public boats run along the Cinque Terre coast. In 2026 the operator also ran the Cinque Terre Trip from 1 to 27 March, so a similar early-spring service in 2027 is possible. Nothing had been announced as of October 2026. The unofficial site cinqueterre5.com lists an expected regular boat season of 27 March to 1 November 2027, but Navigazione Golfo dei Poeti hasn't confirmed it. Check before you go.

Water taxis: private boat operators work mostly in summer. In winter, don't count on any boat transfer unless you've confirmed it directly.

Other experiences you might enjoy

With the boats laid up, winter visits here run on rails and on foot. Guided day trips from Florence and Pisa still reach Monterosso, Vernazza and Riomaggiore by coach and train, and La Spezia, Porto Venere and Levanto keep walking tours, Cinque Terre train tours, wine tastings and pesto and focaccia classes going through the colder months.

Trains: your winter lifeline

What changed on 1 November

From 14 March to 1 November 2026, the Cinque Terre Express added 46 extra daily trains between Levanto and La Spezia. Those trips had flat "Cinque Terre tariff" fares of €5, €8 or €10 depending on the day. Both the extra trains and the special fare ended on 1 November. Regione Liguria has said the Express will run every year from March to November, so expect it back around mid-March 2027. The summer service is covered in our Cinque Terre trains and Card guide.

Winter frequency and journey times

Ordinary regional trains stop at Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso all year. On a weekday in mid-November 2026, Trenitalia's journey planner showed:

• About one train an hour in each direction that stops at every village, with a few extra. Monterosso and Levanto also get faster trains that run straight past the smaller villages, so they see one or two an hour.
• Short hops: La Spezia to Riomaggiore takes 7 to 8 minutes. Each hop between neighbouring villages takes 2 to 4 minutes, and Monterosso to Levanto takes 4 to 5 minutes.
• End to end: La Spezia Centrale to Levanto takes 20 to 29 minutes.
• First and last trains: the first train between Riomaggiore and Manarola left at 05:17 and the last at 23:19. The timetable changes in mid-December, so look up the exact first and last trains for your date in the Trenitalia app.

Practical tip: don't just turn up at the platform. A missed train can mean waiting up to an hour on a cold platform. Look up the next two departures before you sit down for lunch.

Weekends with no trains: the 2026–27 rail works

The railway doesn't run every day this winter. According to the National Park's card site (card.parconazionale5terre.it), trains are suspended for 48 hours between Corniglia and La Spezia on these weekends:

• 14–15 November 2026
• 19–20 December 2026
• 9–10 January 2027
• 6–7 February 2027

On those weekends there are also no trains between Levanto and La Spezia from 22:30 to 6:30 on the Friday and Saturday nights. With no ferries after 8 December, Riomaggiore and Manarola are then cut off by rail from La Spezia. If your dates fall on one of these weekends, plan to stay at the Monterosso and Levanto end, and check Trenitalia's Infomobilità page for any replacement buses before you travel.

Winter ticket prices

With the special tariff gone, winter trips use the ordinary Liguria regional fare, which is priced by distance. The published table starts at €2.40 for 1 to 5 km, then €2.70 (6–10 km), €3.00 (11–15 km), €3.50 (16–20 km) and €4.60 (21–30 km). Trenitalia's journey planner quoted these fares for a weekday in mid-November 2026:

Some guides still quote old winter fares of €2.50 to €3.80 or "around €4". Check the exact fare for your route in the Trenitalia app.

How to buy and validate tickets

• Trenitalia app or website: buy a Digital Regional Ticket up to 5 minutes before departure. It's tied to the train you pick and activates automatically at that train's scheduled departure, so there's nothing to stamp. If you'll miss that train, change the time in the app before it leaves. Show the live ticket in the app to the conductor; a screenshot isn't enough.
• Station machines and ticket desks: the bigger stations have them. In winter, desks can keep short hours or be closed.
• Park info points at the stations sell the Cinque Terre Card and can help with timetables.
• Validate paper tickets in the green or white machine on the platform before you board. An unvalidated ticket counts as no ticket. Trenitalia doesn't publish a single fine figure. Traveller reports on the Rick Steves forum put it at €50 if paid on the spot, rising to as much as €200 if left unpaid, on top of the fare.

If you'd rather have someone else sort the tickets and the hops, the Cinque Terre by train tour from La Spezia (4.1★ from 1,350 reviews) does exactly that; its reviews are more mixed than the Florence day trips', so read the recent ones before you book.

Strikes (sciopero)

Italian rail strikes are common and announced in advance. The Italian transport ministry's strike calendar lists a national rail strike from 21:00 on 20 November to 20:00 on 21 November 2026, the day after a general strike called for 20 November. During strikes, regional trains are guaranteed 6:00–9:00 and 18:00–21:00 on weekdays and 7:00–10:00 and 18:00–21:00 on public holidays. Check the strike calendar and Trenitalia's "Infomobilità" page the week you travel, and plan your village-hopping inside those guaranteed windows on a strike day. Under the Park's rules, a train strike is one of the cases in which a Treno Card can be refunded.

Getting there by train from Florence, Pisa, Genoa and Milan

• Florence: about 2 to 2.5 hours to La Spezia, usually with a change at Pisa. Slower direct regional trains also run.
• Pisa: about 1 to 1.5 hours to La Spezia by regional or Intercity train. From Pisa Airport, the people-mover reaches Pisa Centrale in about 8 minutes.
• Genoa: about 1 to 1.5 hours to Levanto or Monterosso. Change to a local train for the smaller villages.
• Milan: about 3 hours or more to La Spezia or Monterosso, often on a direct Intercity via Genoa.

Planning a day trip? Our day trip from Florence guide covers the journey and the guided options.

Cinque Terre Treno MS Card: winter prices and value

Official prices, 2 November to 31 December 2026

All of these prices are from the National Park's published winter price list. Children under 4 travel free with a cardholder. One guide lists €18.70 for the adult day card, which looks like a mix-up with the discounted price list for guests at certified (CETS) hotels.

January to March 2027: the Park had not published prices as of October 2026. The unofficial guide cinqueterre.eu.com says low season, and its prices, runs until 12 March 2027. In past years the Park has changed prices in January. Check before you go.

What it includes

• Unlimited 2nd-class regional trains between Levanto and La Spezia
• The ATC park shuttle buses within the villages (Corniglia station shuttle, Manarola–Volastra and others)
• Station toilets in the villages (otherwise €1 a visit) and park Wi-Fi where available
• Via dell'Amore access, which you must still book in a time slot (see below)

The card has your name on it, so carry ID. Buy it at Park info points, online on the Park's card site or MyPass app, or in the Trenitalia app or website. Card sales stop during orange or red weather alerts.

Is it worth it? A worked example

Here's one adult doing a full day out from La Spezia: Riomaggiore, then Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, Monterosso, then back to La Spezia.

• Single tickets: €2.70 + (4 × €2.40) + €3.50, which comes to €15.80.
• Card: €17.30.

On trains alone, single tickets win by €1.50. The card is the only way to walk the Via dell'Amore, though, and it also covers the shuttle up from Corniglia station and the station toilets. If you want the Via dell'Amore, buy the card. If you only want to hop between villages a few times, buy single tickets.

Walking between villages

When the weather is dry, walking can be your transport too. From 2 November to mid-March the park trails are free. The exception is the Via dell'Amore (Riomaggiore to Manarola), which needs a card and a booked time slot. From 26 October 2026 to 28 March 2027, it opens from 9:00 with last entry at 17:30, according to the official ticket site. You walk one way only, from Riomaggiore to Manarola, and have up to 30 minutes. The coastal path between Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso was closed when we checked on 21 October 2026, so look at the Park's trail page first. For which trails are open and how to stay safe, see our guide to hiking Cinque Terre in November and winter.

ATC buses

The ATC winter timetable runs from 13 September 2026 to 12 June 2027.

• Village shuttles: short park lines run Riomaggiore–Monesteroli, Manarola–Groppo–Volastra, Vernazza–car park/San Bernardino, Monterosso–Vettora and Corniglia–station. The Corniglia shuttle saves you the 382-step Lardarina staircase, which is hard work with luggage. Winter runs are less frequent than in summer and there is no service late at night.
• To Riomaggiore, Manarola and Volastra from La Spezia: there is no frequent direct bus. Line 29 (La Spezia–Volastra via Groppo) runs only a few times on weekdays. Take the train instead.
• La Spezia to Porto Venere (line 11/P): this is your winter route to Porto Venere once the boats stop. The winter booklet shows morning departures from La Spezia station (Via Fiume) about every 20 minutes. The trip takes roughly 30 to 40 minutes depending on traffic. One ride costs €3.00, ATC's extra-urban "0–22 km" fare, valid for one ride within 60 minutes.
• Tickets: buy from tobacconists or newsagents, or in the DropTicket or myCicero apps before you board. Tickets bought in the app are activated in the app. Buying on board costs extra and isn't always possible. ATC's own DropTicket guide prices a full-network day ticket at €7.50. The La Spezia tourism site Visitspezia lists €7.00, so assume €7.50.

Driving and parking

Can you drive to the villages?

You can reach the edge of each village, but you can't drive in. The village centres are restricted traffic zones (ZTL) for residents. The coastal roads, the SP370 "Litoranea" from La Spezia above Riomaggiore and Manarola and the SP51/SP61 down to Vernazza, are narrow, steep and slow. In winter, heavy rain can cause landslides and road closures, so check the Liguria weather alerts before you set off.

Car parks (rates as published for 2026; winter 2026–27 rates not yet confirmed)

• Monterosso, Fegina (by the beach, about 270 spaces) and Loreto (old town). The 2026 season rate runs to 1 November: €3 an hour, €30 for 24 hours. Earlier winters were about €2 an hour or €20 a day. This is the easiest village to reach by car.
• Vernazza: car parks on the SP51/SP61 about 1 km above the village, with a shuttle. One is attended, with about 35 spaces, open 8:00–20:00.
• Manarola: Posella and Acquarino at the village entrance, about €2.50 to €3 an hour or €20 a day. Spaces are limited.
• Riomaggiore: Rio Park, about 60 spaces, €3.50 to €4 an hour or €35 a day. Zorza, on the road between Riomaggiore and Manarola, costs about €1 an hour.
• La Spezia: the garage at the Centrale station is about €18 a day.
• Levanto: car parks near the station and seafront. Check the local rates.

Our advice: park and ride

Hire a car only if the Cinque Terre is one stop on a longer Liguria or Tuscany road trip. Then park once in La Spezia or Levanto and use the train. You'll save money and stress, and you won't be driving cliff roads in the rain.

Taxis, transfers and luggage

• Local taxis: there are only a few, and fewer in winter. Book ahead through your accommodation instead of hoping one turns up. La Spezia has taxis at the Centrale station.
• Airport transfers: Pisa is the closest major airport, roughly 1 to 1.5 hours by road. Genoa is a similar distance to Levanto. A pre-booked transfer is the easiest choice for groups with luggage or late arrivals.
• Luggage: pack light. Manarola, Vernazza and Corniglia are full of steps. Choose accommodation near the station or the seafront, and ask your host about porters. Sleeping in La Spezia makes everything easier; our where to stay guide compares the villages and the bigger towns.

Sample plan: all five villages in one winter day by train

Train times are from Trenitalia's timetable for a weekday in mid-November 2026. Check the real departures for your date the night before.

1. 08:12La Spezia to Riomaggiore

   Train from La Spezia Centrale to Riomaggiore (about 8 minutes). Explore the harbour.

2. 09:30Via dell'Amore to Manarola

   Walk the Via dell'Amore to Manarola on your booked slot. Around Christmas, the hillside nativity is the reason to come back after dark (see the nativity notes in our winter guide).

3. 11:24Manarola to Corniglia

   Train to Corniglia, then the shuttle (or the stairs) up to the village.

4. 12:27Corniglia to Vernazza

   Train to Vernazza for lunch by the harbour. Kitchens often stop serving around 14:00–14:30 in winter.

5. 14:31Vernazza to Monterosso

   Train to Monterosso for a beach walk and focaccia.

6. Late afternoonSunset and the train back

   Watch the sunset, which comes at around 17:00 in November and as early as about 16:43 in mid-December. Then take the train back to La Spezia; on our sample weekday there were departures from Monterosso at 17:21, 17:55 and 18:21.

If it rains, swap the walk for a longer lunch and the train, and check the Park's trail page before you set out for the Via dell'Amore.

Comparison: winter transport options

Frequently asked questions

What travellers ask most about getting around the Cinque Terre between November and March.

Before you go

Pack for wet stations and windy platforms using the packing notes in our November guide, and choose travel insurance that covers strikes and weather cancellations.

Check before you go: fares, card prices, timetables, parking rates and the Via dell'Amore slots all change. Recheck everything with the official operators before you travel.